The Ingredient Encyclopedia

Every Active, Decoded by Dermatologists

Browse our clinical A-to-Z of skincare ingredients — each profile breaks down the science, the strength of evidence, what it pairs with, what it clashes with, and which product type it actually belongs in.

A — Z Profiles

Honest evidence, real conflicts, zero marketing fluff.

Each ingredient is reviewed by our dermatology panel against published clinical literature. The evidence dots show how robust the data is — not how loud the brand is.

R

Retinol

Vitamin A · All-trans retinol

The gold-standard anti-aging active. Speeds cell turnover, stimulates collagen, and softens fine lines — but only if you can tolerate the purge.

Evidence
Night serum Anti-aging Avoid with AHA/BHA
V

Vitamin C

L-Ascorbic Acid · 10–20%

Brightens, fades pigment, and boosts SPF performance. Stability is the real issue — look for opaque, airtight packaging and a pH below 3.5.

Evidence
Morning serum Brightening Pairs with Vitamin E + Ferulic
N

Niacinamide

Vitamin B3 · 2–10%

Calms redness, regulates sebum, and supports the skin barrier. Exceptionally well-tolerated and one of the few actives that plays nicely with almost everything.

Evidence
Daily serum Barrier Pore care
H

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate · Multi-weight

Holds up to 1,000× its weight in water. Multi-weight formulas hydrate at multiple depths — seal with an occlusive or it pulls moisture the wrong way in dry climates.

Evidence
Hydration All skin types Layer freely
A

Azelaic Acid

C9-dicarboxylic acid · 10–20%

The quiet workhorse. Treats rosacea, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and mild acne with a far lower irritation profile than most acids.

Evidence
Rosacea Pigment Pregnancy-safe*
S

Sunscreen Filters

Zinc Oxide · Titanium Dioxide · Tinosorb S

The single most evidence-backed anti-aging step. Mineral filters suit sensitive skin; modern hybrids (Tinosorb, Mexoryl) offer elegant, weightless UV coverage.

Evidence
AM, every day SPF 30+ Reapply q2h
How To Use

Layering rules, conflicts, and timing — decoded.

Most irritation comes from stacking the wrong actives. These are the layering rules our dermatologists actually follow at home.

Morning Routine Order

1

Low-pH Cleanser

Strips less from the barrier. Skip if you cleansed at night and your skin is balanced.

2

Vitamin C Serum (10–20%)

Best on freshly cleansed skin. Wait 60 seconds before the next step.

3

Hydrating Layer

Hyaluronic acid or a peptide serum — anything that replenishes water content.

4

Moisturizer + SPF 50

Two fingers of product. Reapply every 2 hours of direct sun exposure.

Conflict Map

Which ingredients should never share a routine.

Stacking the wrong actives is the #1 cause of redness, peeling, and a compromised barrier. Memorize the pairs below.

Retinol + AHA/BHA

Same routine, same night

Both accelerate turnover aggressively. Used together they wreck the barrier. Alternate nights or split AM/PM.

Vitamin C + Niacinamide

In the same formula

Older rumors of flushing are overstated, but high-strength L-ascorbic acid can lower niacinamide's efficacy. Apply at different times if you see sensitivity.

Benzoyl Peroxide + Retinol

Layered together

Benzoyl peroxide oxidizes retinol on contact, neutralizing both. Use benzoyl in the morning, retinol at night.

Retinol + Peptides

Different formulations

Complementary, not conflicting. Retinol resurfaces; peptides signal repair. Use peptides in the morning if retinol dominates your night routine.

Hyaluronic Acid + Everything

Universal layer

Truly inert. Sits between any active and your moisturizer to boost penetration without irritation.

Ceramides + Retinoids

Recovery stack

Counter-intuitively powerful. Ceramides replenish lipids lost during retinization, cutting purge time significantly.

Our Methodology

How we score the evidence.

Every ingredient profile is built on a literature review of peer-reviewed dermatology journals, weighted by study size, replication, and recency.

  • 5 dots — Multiple large-scale RCTs with consistent outcomes.
  • 3–4 dots — Promising but limited to small cohorts or in-vitro data.
  • 1–2 dots — Marketing-driven claims with weak or absent clinical data.
  • Profiles updated every 6 months as new trials publish.

Build a routine around the evidence — not the marketing.

Take our 90-second skin profile and get a dermatologist-reviewed routine built from ingredients that actually have the data behind them.